By Ted Fuller
The paintings of Woodworking - complex Routing
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Extra info for Advanced Routing (Art of Woodworking)
Also, cut and ﬁt the two divider supports. These are notched to wrap around the dividers and ﬁt ﬂush with the top and bottom of the apron – make sure the supports hold the dividers ﬂush with the drawer opening, too. The guides and supports are attached with glue and brads. Piggyback. Drawer dividers ride on the front apron and sit in dados at the back. That’s easy work. Three Steps to Assembly Before any ﬁnal assembly of the case, there are a few operations left to complete. I elected to attach the top using pocket screws, even though the original was pegged through its top.
Do use a form. Test your skills. Cut close to the line, but don’t touch it; excess material can be sanded away, but nicks mean you have to make another piece. — GDH Look ma, no bends. It’s possible to produce shaped cock beading that perfectly ﬁts the cutout. The secret is pattern work. February 2014 11/27/13 9:08 AM same width, and a bottom is applied to complete the drawer box. As a result, the sides and back are a 1 ⁄4" less in width than the drawer fronts, which are rabbeted to accept the drawer bottoms.
I did not make one of these; I prefer to lay out my tenons earlier and cut to the lines. But it is important to at least make up a spacer block that you can put on the tenoning frame to give you the exact location of the shoulders. You align your shoulder marks with this spacer block. It should be sized to exactly the distance from the top of the tenoning frame to the bottom of the kerf made by the saw. To make it a little easier to align perfectly with a gauged shoulder line, you can also screw a scribing disk like those used in cutting gauges so that the edge of the disk is perfectly ﬂush with the top of the spacer block.
Advanced Routing (Art of Woodworking) by Ted Fuller